video

I'm Kat and I'm in the ba Test Kitchen to have a super secret conversation about Chris Morocco once again we're putting Chris's super taster abilities to the test this is Christina tosi's compost cookies I'm challenging Chris to recreate this dish in just one day with all the ingredients he'll be able to taste it touch it smell.

It but at no point will he be able to see the dish at the end of the day we'll come back to see his final creation and I'll be the judge foreign glass with this crew huh interesting sweetness oh my God.

It smells like an ice cream store that's making waffle cones so fatty so buttery so vanilla feels quite a bit like a cookie ever so slightly soft in the center a lot of texture wall to wall it's just like pure sweet vanilla intensity with this sort of like toffee caramel sweetness but there's really like these pockets of like defined chew.

Is it marshmallow those are like little bits of chocolate kind of in parts so I definitely got some bittersweet chocolate that was like it's almost like a cornflake or something that's like breakfast cereal potato chip chocolate got a salted pretzel it's like a miniature butterscotch chip.

Such a riot of textures so we've got a sweet cookie Matrix and then we have all these add-ins maybe marshmallows maybe like a heat bar giving like a toffee kind of aspect it's not really quite my cup of tea but I have a feeling about whose work this might be it just feels very Christina toasty to me and um her most famous cookies the garbage.

No the fridge garbage dump the kitchen sink cookie cookies also called compost compost cookie feels very her even if it's not her ingredients AP flour eggs granulated sugar dark brown sugar baking powder baking soda vanilla all right now in terms of like mixins.

Bittersweet chocolate chips potato chips salted pretzels not rods mini marshmallows let's try Lucky Charms toffee bar why not and small butterscotch chips this is like one of those days where you feel like we're going home at midnight um somebody's gonna go shop for these ingredients and then I'll have my first.

Shot so mini pretzels salted I've got potato chips mini marshmallows mini butterscotch chips got semi-sweet chocolate chips uh this time those are actually Bittersweet Hershey's special dark is that what I am to you Corn Flakes Lucky Charms God help.

Me like I haven't even thought about these things for like three decades started out fairly crisp although as they warmed they started to soften and I think that is largely a function of there being a fairly High proportion of fat so Corey just gave me my own recipe for.

Ba's best chocolate chip cookie now that cookie I don't think is entirely correct but that's gonna give me at least like a rough indication of where I should be coming in I want to start out by trying to cream the butter and sugar together as opposed to putting the butter into a liquid state it's just gonna help me create like a different structure to.

This cookie then I'm gonna go with dark brown sugar for its higher molasses content stronger flavor and then we're gonna go one whole stick of butter although maybe let's go crazy let's put an extra couple tablespoons of butter in there all right so you're gonna get that cream in 125 grams of flour half a teaspoon of.

Baking powder and then quarter teaspoon of baking soda by creaming you know it helps build the structure of the cookie it dissolves the sugar um and yeah I don't know it's freaking science you know honestly I wish I understood it like better than I do the way that these.

Ingredients intersect is part of what creates like so many baked goods it's just fascinating vanilla is now going in to the dough as well yeah so in here not to do that salts in there that's great now we go so this is our base dough and then I'll.

Combine it the rest Away by hand as you let a dough rest you allow the flour to fully hydrate yes for the sake of consistency and repeatability you know a rusted dough May ultimately perform better but like if you do a cookie that's meant to be rested and you bake it right away you're going to get a very different result than the person who's.

Actually following the recipe and resting it as indicated for me I'm not sitting around for two hours waiting for chocolate chip cookies I want to be working in a mode here today that doesn't necessitate resting in any real meaningful way to that end I'm going to bake off a couple cookies side by side just to see how the dough performs we.

Can only try oh yeah we got problems got big problems the two extra tablespoons of butter I think we're almost certainly a mistake I just made like a freaking Tates mutant you know like Plain Jane cookie here sorry no offense chains of the world just plain cookie what we're lacking here is structure the whole point of.

Doing the creamed method was to like try to build firm yet yielding structure with like really glassy smooth kind of Underside I'm gonna cool this down in the fridge just for like 10 minutes meanwhile I'm gonna go ahead and make another dough one stick butter the danger of just changing too many things at once and not.

Being able to tell the impact of each individual change half a teaspoon baking powder a quarter of a teaspoon baking soda kosher salt the cookie has that turbocharged sweet vanilla buttery thing happening which feels appropriate but it's just completely.

Lacking skin substance I still feel good about rebalancing these ingredients the way that we are may have to think about leavening so this is really just going to Showcase a different proportion of fat and flowers and I'm going to hold there without changing anything else about our leavening.

Definitely got slightly stiffer dough again it's not like a complete game change but I definitely noticed the difference all right here we go and we'll see how we're looking I know interesting so a little bit more structure but we're looking a little anemic you know not quite getting our.

Iron camera right so I'm going to shift the proportion of granulated and dark brown sugar further in favor of dark brown sugar I'm also going to tweak the leavening the goal is to try to get just a little bit more structure a little bit more lift a little bit more heft to these cookies I don't know that like baking powder ever.

Should have been in here to begin with but I'm going soda only version three it's like deja vu all over again so now we're just doing 50 grams granulated gives you sweetness crispiness brown sugar gives you more chewiness this will be 150 grams now.

Staying with one stick unsalted butter so in terms of dry ingredients staying constant on AP flour no soda only soda it gives you some lift but it also causes baked goods to spread and brown so I really think you're going to start to notice a difference in terms of the color of this dough it's already.

Pretty pronounced all right Dry Goods going in just want to zero in on the right dough No resting no hydration 10 minutes see you there okay so this was 12 minutes even the parchment being raised just a little bit inhibited the spread of the cookie and gave me that warped.

Shape even though it's warm I can already pick it up it tells me that it's gonna firm up to some degree of crispiness I think this is a pretty good base to work off of in terms of folding in some mix-ins and then seeing how it bakes with them million dollar question and I'm I'm I'm serious here how do you get some of this.

In there you know so we're gonna do salted pretzels potato chips butterscotch chips are like I don't even want to taste it this is like my worst thing it's like my worst thing it should be fake vanilla like what is that but then like mini chocolate chips was it a mini.

Chocolate chip or was it just like chopped chocolate chocolate part of it felt like more irregular I don't know if that's right or wrong but maybe we just go a little bit of chopped chocolate or was it just the heath bar maybe maybe I'm gonna chip the chocolate off the heath bar but include the toffee quotient and then I'm gonna chop other.

Chocolate on the side seems very plausible Okay so we've got salted pretzels we've got mini marshmallows oh we need the marshmallow we've got butterscotch chips we've got potato chips corn no dude perfect and and that's just how they do.

It okay so without like absolutely crushing and shattering everything how do you portion this dough you know all right so we're gonna go into the oven see what happens here all right 350 degrees and we're gonna leave it about 10 minutes check them see how we're doing.

Very curious to see how this goes having some problems and what a mess same cookie you know fairness it's hydrated right but it's it's moving and it's spreading in really unpredictable ways because of the mixins as well the marshmallows really do some up annoying things so I'm gonna.

Do something that's like super normal and not annoying at all which is hold the marshmallows right out of this dough and then bake off a couple more because they're spreading and doing bad things like I knew they would that's why I wanted stupid marshmallows from the Lucky.

Charms I'm just gonna file this under everything's totally cool yeah we're still on attempt number one let's see what happens here might have gone a little too heavy on the mix-ins but it's okay all right here we go I mean do I wish that weren't sticking straight up yeah I do thanks for.

Pointing it out it took a while to get to this place it gives us a pretty good Baseline and then the mix-ins are the mix-ins all right oh God I mean let's call it a 65 for ingredients is there Heath bar is there what form of chocolate what type of flaky things what type of marshmallowy.

Or sugary things technique wise like maybe I'm at 70 like this maybe just hope that I got the right sort of style of cookie dough this is like way too textural I'd say like 65. taste flavor-wise I'd say like maybe we're at 70 on this piece of paper I have the scores I just gave myself along with the actual scores.

Oh ingredient wise I'm actually out of 50. um technique wise I'm actually at 75. is there something I needed to make to go in there there's like a sub component you know of the recipe that's like a mix-in that I should have like constructed from the ground up.

I've got one more shop to taste the original dish before I do my final bake on this and maybe I'll pick up something else we can hope right all right well we gotta break down and use those mini chocolate chips stop trying to get fancy with the Hershey's.

Special dark hand chopped thank you very much these little shattering crisp marshmallowy weird caramelly somethings the differential on the ingredients for made me wonder could it be that there's like some other component I need to be making are we sure that's not like an ice cream.

Cone or something buttery sweet but like fairly neutral shards of cookie compared to like the intensity of flavor of like one of those butterscotch chips or like a chocolate little pocket it like doesn't even compare I don't know it's very hard for me to place this is giving me granola bar kind of it's a little bit sweet maybe felt like.

A little bit like grainy or oaty if there's one thing I'm like sort of spinning out of ground is like it's these you know kind of like gooey things that like present as sort of like marshmallowy I'm really just racking my brain trying to figure out like okay what can give you a similar effect corn syrup is something that you might see a.

Little bit more in like a production kitchen where you want to retain like softness but it's not like my sweet spot you know just in terms of like how I usually put together my cookie dough or what a reasonable amount of it would be yeah I don't think I need to taste anything else um.

this meringue sweetness gooeyness that's really like vexing me but what what about like that round that round crunchy like cookie like thing like in terms of recreating the sensation of like what was happening in the cookie like I'll take some sugar.

Cones like right now I'll put them in there I don't give a we're not making big changes with the dough did a lot of work to get the dough to like a place I was like pretty happy with I just asked for some rolled oats giving me that like granola bar Vibe maybe that would get me something.

All right so dry ingredients AP flour baking soda salt for sugars wait that's some that's flour folks thanks for the heads up I'm gonna stay with where I was on our sugar makeup but I'm also adding a little bit of corn syrup inverted sugars whether it's like corn syrup honey you get a lot.

Of chew rather than like drying out and just going full on like crispy not because it's adding flavor necessarily I'm tempted just to like go full Rogue and start pulling out the Lucky Charms marshmallows oh my God my kids would die of Joy if I if I brought these home I honestly like kind of wild how similar it is to like something I've been.

Tasting in there are dry ingredients now we need our mix sense now is like where things get weird right so I'll do like a quarter cup of those I mean I don't know some chips are going to go in here take one of the marshmallows.

It's not a bad facsimile flavor wise cooked sugar a little bit like caramelized so we're gonna throw in some of those now we're going full mini chip butterscotch for Pretzels Plus I'm doing a little chopped chocolate as well doing both oh yeah more of like a matter of like what I'm perceiving in the.

Cookie I want to beat this up just a little bit working some of those mix-ins in to integrate it and I might do a few pieces of pretzel on top I think put that in the whatever file we're going in okay so second attempt is finally in We're Not Looking Back we're only looking forward so we'll um we'll regroup in like 10 minutes.

All right honestly like I feel okay about this you've got really nice color really nice kind of wavy ripply edges a bit of a soft Center marshmallows from the Lucky Charms standing in for this caramelly chewy sticky something not mad about it at all it's hitting an Ideal Balance of like crispy and chewy in a way that I know how to at least.

Replicate so for ingredients my actual score last time was a 50. as much as I'd love to say that loads of things change since then honestly like maybe I'll go with like an actual 58 and hope that like a few things in the right direction made a difference not a lot change technique wise here so I'm gonna stick with 75.

Appearance if I was at 88 before like let's say I'm at 90 now taste let's nudge that up to maybe 85 just with the inclusion of a couple of other elements just a challenging day I'm okay I should have said too it's okay we didn't I didn't prepare you for that I didn't spin out too hard about the things I just couldn't get you know it's.

All right Chris are you ready to find out what the set I sure am may I present to you Christina tosi's compost cookie okay okay I feel like as soon as you tasted it you were like I think I know who's making this cookie yeah and you got it right immediately I mean they look pretty similar I mean there certainly is.

A slightly different structure to my cookie from the original like these didn't don't look like they spread the same way yes I think I've had to make some choices about how to make cookies over the years and I I've like sort of never really looked back yeah your brain is just like clouded with all the information that you've created for.

Yourself and now you're like I don't I refuse to do it any other way yeah exactly you want to tell me about how you made your cookie I used creamed butter granulated sugar brown sugar and light corn syrup simple dry mixture AP flour uh baking soda salt that was the base no rest right into the oven I I think that's what one of the biggest.

Differences here was is that this is a rusted cookie and you do rest it in the fridge for an hour the lower temperature allowed the butter to solidify rather than stay soft at room temperature helped it seize a little bit better in that hot ovens how fascinating that like a very similarly ratioed cookie like yeah that is sort of the benefit of like.

A cold rest right yeah it's a very controlled spread and it's a little bit of like a different texture yeah but I am super impressed with the fact that you went this route because I think the texture of your cookie is super similar so let's talk about ingredients okay I wanted you to get it so badly yeah can I can I open one while we're talking yeah.

Yeah so that ingredient was actually graham cracker crust that Christina Tosi makes herself to fold into the cookie batter I feel like we we set you up for failure and I do apologize but this is the show and they don't make the rules no no it's so funny though graham crackers like very open Airy structure not gonna present that crisp in my mind.

Right because if it's a crust and it's had extra fat and it's only extra fat but it's had milk powder and extra sugar and everything just kind of becomes this like thick mass yeah I don't feel bad about that at all because I mean like what the but like and that's why I put marshmallow in there I was like there's.

Some weird desiccated sugary something you took out your baking powder after your first attempt this recipe actually uses both baking soda and baking powder and it's actually more baking powder than soda there's no brown sugar there's light brown sugar I understand where you were coming from trying to use dark brown sugar because you were trying to.

Add in that little bit of acid to activate the baking soda but yeah this is mostly baking powder okay so it wouldn't be a true compost cookie if there wasn't some coffee grounds in there really if you know what's in there you can taste it a little bit you want to try it sure let's try it taste the coffee a little bit.

No maybe I just drink too much like actual coffee yeah should we try yours be sure to get a piece with a lucky charm lucky charm okay you might have to dig around for one the texture is so similar it's funny it's like with all that dark brown sugar in there the whole thing.

Tastes a little bit Savory and like butterscotchy and caramelly your extra dark brown sugar is doing that work so it tastes so similar color for ingredients I gave you 60. just by counting all the ingredients and then two and then doing math yeah just just math um technique I gave you a 75 because of the graham cracker thing you.

Did miss about a third of the recipe so as much as I hate to dock points for that I mean it just had to happen sure and then for appearance I gave you an 85. I do think they're extremely similar but because you did use those colorful marshmallows and there just aren't quite as many mix-ins as there are in this recipe I had to give you an 85. and then.

For taste I gave you a 90. you were able to create such a similar product even though you missed so many ingredients you know somehow you got there nice and it just tastes almost almost identical that whole it's a cocktail uh you know graham cracker thing like yeah cool you know yes the rest of it is is gravy yeah yeah.

Getting the chef getting the name of the dish getting so close to recreating it doing so many things wrong along the way tiny differences have huge impacts and I think this is like today is like just such a clear example of of that if I discuss a cookie from here into the compost will you give me a free ingredient.

Sure yeah okay we're okay just careful heads up heads up heads up oh are you kidding me how can you be that close oh gosh

99 Comments