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I'm gonna be travelling all over Italy forthe summer of my 30th birthday, tryna get reinspired and cook for some of the toughestfood experts in the world. No seriously I don't know if I can kill alamb. Tryna get him to try something is like um,trying to get him to take a new mortgage. I'll tell you now not many English cooks wouldhave the bollocks to do this. I mean you could say, “Jamie Oliver, whata catastrophically fantastic f*ck-up.” This lot here are waiting for me to phoneup saying, “oh yeah I'm just on the back of a low-loader at the moment.” I f*cking hate this van, the romance is over.

Good start. D'you want me to help? Alright, it's all good. Lots of love. Goodbye. See you later, take care. So I'm starting off in Sicily, right south. That's gotta be nearly 2,000 miles beforeI even get there! We're all going on a summer holiday!.

The food that I'm hunting down is the realdeal Italian stuff, I'm gonna be learning from the people that count, it's almost likeday one of college again y'know? I'm just so excited I can't possibly tell you. I guess it's the unexpected isn't it, that'swhat travelling is supposed to be all about. Yeah not always knowing exactly where you'regoing. After 36 hours on the road I'm really pleasedto see that ferry to Sicily. I can't wait to see some of this street food. Wow what's that? Asparagus flower?.

Frittata? Gee whiz, wow look at that swordfish, nowthat is a bit of fish. Can I smell fish? Absolutely not, even outside can't smell fish,it's fresh. Look at the lovely red gills; if they're notred like that, then it's not fresh. Look they got boiled artichokes, boiled potatoes,lovely salad I mean that looks good y'know? Like in England we think fast food is likein a box, ding! And down here you get the most, I mean lookhow fresh these are this is fantastic. I mean you never seen artichokes like thisbefore, I mean…

Super fresh. Then old handsome over here has just boiledthem all up in this huge vat. Un momento signore… There's a lot of cooking going on in thisstreet. He's cooking the fish really simply but he'scooking it as good as any restaurant I've ever seen. Sicilian fast food, that's the original fastfood. So you can buy your stuff in the market. Yeah.

And then this man here, do you have to payhim to cook it? Yes. I bet he could teach me a few things aboutgrilling I tell ya. If you do really wanna learn about streetcooking you should come and cook here, one day. Yeah but how, I can't do that, I don't evenknow anyone… I think they're all arguing about whether or not I can cook here on Saturday. You can come here and cook some stuff.

Will they mind if I come and cook? No, they won't. Grazie mille, grazie, fantastico! Day two in Italy and my great escape ain'texactly the way it looks in the brochure. I've travelled halfway across Europe to getto Palermo in Sicily. I'm absolutely gobsmacked how well peopleon the streets are eating, they're really adventurous and they know loads about food. But me and my big mouth… tomorrow night I'm gonna be taking over thefish grill in one of the craziest markets.

In Sicily, and I've got no idea what the localsare gonna make of English boy doing their cooking. I really need to try out a few recipes fortomorrow night, so I'm gonna get out of the city and I'm gonna camp at a friend of a friendof mine's. I've never met a countess. What does it mean, is it like a lord, or alady? Scusa, scusa! Were you going to destroy my garden, my courtyard? Well I wasn't intending to, I can't believe…

Oh no… Given I'm already staying in their garden,and mowing most of it down, I think I better use me own kitchen. It's the first time I've used this kitchen,and I've kinda… It's a good first impression! Leave it like this. Don't touch it any more. I know the punters in the market have theirfish plain, but I wanna know how adventurous they are, so I'm gonna be doing some reallysimple Italian seasonings because I like my.

Fish with a little bit of extra flavour. Hello chickens! So for subtle-flavoured fish like grouper,a bit like bream, I'm gonna try some fennel tops they're beautiful. I'm not sure if this is Sicilian or not becauseI don't live here, but this grows here, this is caught here, and it's simple. But the fennel inside the fish is going totaste absolutely delicious. And for stronger fish like red mullet I'mgonna be making a delicately fragrant salt. I haven't tried this before but I think thatorange, just a handful of rosemary, smashed.

Up could be good. Literally take the orange zest off of oneorange. And you know there'll be some bits in therey'know it's pretty much mush but there'll be some big bits in there as well, let's notget all airy-fairy about it. Now, that's a lot of salt yeah? But if you're gonna make a flavoured salty'know this keeps really well for like a couple of months. Y'know, I'm gonna taste the salt now. I think that's quite interesting.

Tomorrow night, I mean don't get me wrongI mean I'm not scared or nothing, but that market was chaos. Y'know he had a grill two and a half timesthe size of this and, y'know I've worked on grill sections and it was absolutely packed. Look at that. There's gonna be a lot going so I've gottakinda pull me finger out really tomorrow. Hm, I'm not sure if I'm gonna sleep well tonight. Out of all the parts of Italy that I've beento before, I feel more like a little white English boy than I ever have done before,and I…

I feel pretty foreign to be honest. I think I've arranged to meet the guys atabout four. So we're on the grill tonight. But it don't exactly look like I'm expecteddoes it? Me and you on the griglia? So they're gonna carry on cooking fish forthe punters, and I'm gonna be cooking alongside them with my new sauces, but I could do witha bit of help. You go… down the road… una momento you'llbe paid when I get me wallet out. Get me… une, due, quattro bunch of basilico.

I'm using the kids, because… quite franklythe adults scare me. To say that I'm in a really rough area isan understatement. I've been to some pretty rough parts of theworld but I ain't ever… I got two women tryna beat the crap out ofa young lad. It's eight o'clock and the sauces are ready. But contrary to our earlier agreement, mistergrillman's having none of it. So I guess I'll just have to try and sell'em myself… I mean you could say, “Jamie Oliver, what acatastrophically fantastic f*ck-up.” So with no one taking the apparent risk ofme grilling their fish, I'm gonna have to.

Buy me own and see if I can give it away! Got a, um… I wish my Italian was better. What they're saying is the fish are so fresh,don't mess with it. This is all kind of, y'know… life-shapingexperiences. Jesus, what have I got myself into. Senore? I've asked him where I'm gonna put it becauseI don't think they particularly like me. Stop taking the piss.

Okay… come on, you're Italian. Complimenti. It's very good. Grazie. He thinks it's beautiful. Even the man says it's good now! The fact that they like it… I was gonna go back to my camper today witha bit of a complex, I've gotta be honest. A night's work for free and no one likes anyof the stuff!.

Grazie. I tell you what after tonight mate I needmore! In one? No way mate. This is like being in Essex, it's like Duke'snightclub! I'm quick shocked – every Italian I've metis a food expert, or at least has an opinion about food. But they're much less open-minded than I thoughtthey'd be. Grazie mille.

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